Find the cold water valve on top of the heater and turn it clockwise until it stops. This stops fresh water from feeding the leak.
For an electric unit, flip the breaker. For gas, turn the dial to 'off' or 'pilot'. Running a heater with a leaking tank can damage the element or burner.
Soak up standing water so you can see if the puddle keeps coming back. That tells the plumber whether it's a slow weep or a real breach.
Get a picture of the model and serial sticker. It helps us match a replacement fast if the tank is done.
Most water in a Hollister garage or utility closet under the tank comes from one of three spots. The drain valve at the base can drip if it wasn't closed all the way. The temperature and pressure relief valve can discharge down its tube. Or the steel tank inside has corroded and split, which is the one you can't fix.
Our hard groundwater is tough on water heaters here. Minerals settle at the bottom of the tank and bake against the burner, which speeds up rust from the inside. That's why a lot of tanks in this valley start failing sooner than the sticker suggests. A plumber checks the valve fittings, the relief line, and the base of the tank, then flushes or tests to see exactly where the water starts.
Treat it as urgent if the puddle grows back after you dry it, if you smell gas, or if the water is rusty. A tank that's actively leaking can fail all at once and dump dozens of gallons across the floor. If it's just a slow drip from a fitting, you have a little more time, but don't ignore it.
Describe what you're seeing to a real Hollister plumber: call (831) 555-0142 or send the form. Free, no obligation.